Excerpt from the Diary of Col.
Wm. Fairfax Gray:
Thursday,
February 11, 1836
"Rose early and saddle for a start by sunrise, intending
to reach Sims’ to breakfast, sixteen miles. Crossed a watercourse
called Bidais (pronounced Beedeyes, and so written by many of
the illiterate country people); the rain of yesterday had swollen
it very much. Arriving at the cabin of Eduardo Ariola, a Mexican,
was informed that it was so full that we should have to swim.
Met here Dr. Field, who left Nacogdoches on Saturday, returning,
who said he could not cross. But we prevailed on a young Mexican,
who called his own name Dolores Ariola, to show us the ford, which
he readily undertook. Coming to a creek which had flowed out beyond
its banks upwards of 100 yards, he manfully waded in and sounded
the bottom to point out to us a safe path. We took our saddle
bags on our shoulders and followed him, our Texas fellow traveler,
Whitely, first, and I next. It took the poor Mexican up to his
arms. He was dressed only in shirt and cotton trousers and shoes,
I got over with only one foot a little wet; the water came over
my boot and ran down, which would not have happened had I not
lent my leggings to the Captain, who improvidently had taken the
road in his best military pants, without leggings. About one-half
a mile further on we came to another branch of the same watercourse,
within steep, narrow banks. Our young Mexican friend ran on with
us in his wet clothes, to show us across that, and on the way
very obligingly instructed me in the Spanish vocabulary, as far
as there was time to make inquiries. The second stream presented
greater difficulties than the first. We stripped our horses and
carried our saddles and baggage across on a log road. The difficulty
then was to get our horses over. We attempted to drive them, but
they bolted, and were with difficulty caught and brought back.
The Mexican then stript (sic) and mounted Dr. H.’s mare,
which he swam across; the others were than driven in and followed,
but Capt. Sherman’s mare went too low down the stream, and
striking a steep bank, among drift wood, was near drowning before
she could be got over. The obliging alactrity of the young Mexican
in serving us, and the exposure he underwent, called for our commendation
and liberal reward, with which he seemed much gratified.
The delay in crossing these streams
prevented our reaching Sims’ until 11 o’clock. We
found the house kept by a Mexican named Antonio Rios, a native
of Nacogdoches, who spoke the English language well, and gave
his name as Rivers, but his Gipsy-like visage betrayed his origin.
He is a smart, obliging fellow, who has rented the place of Sims,
a rude house of two rooms and an open passage: the common style.
Here we found a company of eleven men from Tennessee, going to
join the army. Having to wait for them to be served, and to rest
our horses, we did not leave Rios’ until 2 o’clock,
designing to reach the Widow Anderson’s, twelve miles. We
did not reach the widow’s until dark, and then found the
house to consist of one small room, and no food of any kind for
the horses. We got a good supper of the coarse kind usually found
on the road, but no sugar for the coffee.
Soon after our arrival a foot traveler,
young man from Georgia, who is going to join a volunteer company
from that State now in Texas, came in and partook of our supper.
He left Nacogdoches about the time we did, and kept up with us,
generally sleeping and eating with us. His baggage consists of
a surtout coat and saddle bags. These we occasionally relieve
him of by carrying for him. He stops for nothing, but pushes right
ahead, through rain, mud and watercourses. Today he swam the stream
that our horses waded. He did not know the ford that the Mexican
showed us. He will make a fine soldier if he lives to reach the
army. (Fare and lodging at Larrison’s, 75 cents; dinner
and horse feed at Rios’, 75 cents; paid the Mexican 50 cents.)
We gave the only spare bed the widow had to the foot passenger,
who complained of a little fever, and we slept on the floor. Our
poor horses were tied in the woods.
Friday,
February 12, 1836
Rose at daylight, wishing to reach Boatwright’s to breakfast,
fourteen miles, the only place where we could get food for our
horses. A gloomy, drizzling morning, threatening rain. Five miles
from Mr. Anderson’s reached the Uagalote, or Turkey Creek,
which was so much swollen as to be past fording. We found a log
by which we could cross, but our horses must swim. While preparing
to do this, a very heavy storm of thunder and rain came on, which
wet all our baggage and clothes. We passed our baggage over with
difficulty in the midst of the storm. The foot traveler came up
at the instant and assisted us. The log was difficult, and we
took stations on it, and passed the baggage from one to the other.
In driving the horses over one of my overshoes was pulled off
by the mud, but for which I should have preserved dry feet. Reached
Boatwright’s at 11 o’clock, where we breakfasted,
and got corn for our horses. At half past 12 remounted and set
out, but found the Caney Creek so much swollen that it could not
be passed without swimming. The log was under water, and to cross
we could not avoid getting wet, and no chance of entertainment
short of Washington, seventeen miles. So we resolved to return
and wait for the creek to subside, which we were assured would
be the case by morning, if it did not rain again. In the evening
another heavy thunder cloud came up…"
ACTIVITY:
Read these entries and write a short paragraph (6-8 sentences)
describing the difficulties experienced in traveling in Texas
in 1866. How has travel changed today?